If not ruined new improper gordon the (night university trail him or make a fuss. Simply sit and wait patiently until he brings it back to you then treat as normal. Your aim is to make it clear to your dog that order for the fun and games to continue he must bring the toy back to you. If your dog doesn't bring the toy back to you, finish up and try again later on next time go back to the shorter and easier retrieve game as Step 1. Step 4. Continue practicing this game of fetch over and over. Repetition and positive reinforcement are the keys to building and strengthening a solid retrieve. You can now mix up the distance you throw the toy and take your training sessions into different rooms within the house. When you introduce a new object such as a ball to the game you need to start out again at a short distance and increase the distance slowly. Remember to only ever treat and praise your puppy when the retrieve object gets delivered directly to you. Step 5. That's pretty much the retrieve behavior built 4 steps. If you like you can now add a cue at the start of the exercise. Simply say fetch or get it just before you throw the ball. After a while when you say your fetch cue your dog look straight up at you anticipation of a chase. You can also gradually fade the treats now. The game itself be reward enough for your dog. Instead of a tasty treat being your dog's motivation, the next throw of the ball be enough of incentive for him to bring the ball straight back to you. The retrieve is a great exercise to teach most dogs and it only take you a couple of days to work through the 5 steps outlined above. Pretty soon you have eager dog who drops the ball at your feet at any opportunity! 4-H Dog obedience leaders have struggled with how much information to put into each week's training session for youth. I have found that a leader can teach the basics eoght-week course. eight weeks, youth are able to keep up without feeling too much pressure and the dogs can perfect a move before moving on to the next, but not get bored. Moving at a pace that is right for the dog and the handler is very important that patience is always present for both, and no one becomes discouraged. The following explain each session and what is taught at each. Of course, you should always adjust for quick learners and for the age of your audience. Handler should walk off with the leg closest to the dog while clearly and loudly saying the dog's name and heel. Dog should heel at side with lead handler's left hand, unless the dog is hard to handle. If this is the case, the handler would put the lead the right hand and have the left hand placed on the leash a few inches away from the chain. Turn on a roll back or pivot and go the opposite way. Do not cue the dog; handler should just turn. If the dog does not respond and needs a correction handler give the choke a quick jerk to get a quicker response and say the dog's name and heel. However the handler should not use the choke or voice command after the first week of training. Once the handlers are all finished with exercise, be sure to call exercise finish. This is a release when the handler praise their dog excitably, playing with a toy or giving them a treat. This doesn't last just a few seconds unless it is the end of a class or break time. If that is the case, make sure the handlers know there is no work to be done during breaks or after class unless you have a one-on-one time set up with them. They should not practice after a class until the next day. This first step of the stay be done without leaving the dog. The handler tell the dog stay, move their hand a quick motion front of the dogs face, and move out front of the dog leaving with the leg furthest from the dog. The handler should be standing directly front of the